Drywall - A Guide to Installation

Drywall Sanding

Drywall installation can be heavy work, but with the right equipment and techniques, it's a fairly low-stress construction task. Use these straightforward steps to hang sheets of drywall for your customers.

1

Choose the Right Product

Your first step in drywall installation is choosing the correct drywall for the task at hand. For small spans of wall that measure 16 inches or less, choose 1/2-inch-thick drywall. This is also the drywall of choice for door jambs, window frames and electrical outlets. Ceilings and spans of 24 inches call for 5/8-inch drywall, which is typically fire-resistant. When you're working in a bathroom, you need 1/2-inch-thick drywall that's water-resistant, and for climates or rooms where mold could be a problem, such as a basement, look for mold-resistant drywall.

On rare occasions, you may need a specialty drywall that's extra thin. For example, 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch drywall is sometimes necessary if you're dealing with a curved wall or repairing plaster walls that aren't thick enough for standard drywall.

Opt for the largest sheets of drywall that you can physically handle, as you can save money and time by working with large 4 x 12 sheets. Remember that drywall is heavy; a 4 x 12 sheet of drywall weighs more than 80 pounds. If necessary, make sure that the sheets you choose can fit through stairwells before ordering.

2

Prepare the Drywall and the Frame

The old saying "Measure twice, cut once” was never more appropriate than when working with drywall. Measure every section you need carefully, then measure it again just to be sure. Use a drywall T-square as a straightedge to mark the drywall. Score the drywall first with your utility knife, then flip it over and crack it from the other side to get a clean cut.

Don't just measure and mark the drywall. You need to mark the framing as well. Measure and mark the center point of each vertical stud, both at the floor level and as high as you can reach. Take this centering process a step further by using your straightedge to draw a straight line right down the center of the stud. If for some reason you can't mark the stud, use tape to mark the center line. This clearly marked line is where you drive all the screws when fastening the drywall.

Cut your outside corners flush with the framing of the room. Don't try to hang a second piece of drywall flush with the previous piece of drywall, but always refer back to the framing, keeping each piece of drywall flush with that. You can use a metal corner bead later to cover any gaps.

When working in a small room or a closet, don't worry about cutting your drywall with too much precision. Never try to force a piece of drywall that's too big for the spot you're trying to cover. Doing this typically just damages both the piece of drywall you're installing and any adjacent pieces that are already in place. You're going to apply tape and mud to all those inside corners, so any imperfections aren’t visible once you finish.

You need a completely flat surface to hang drywall, so check each stud before you start hanging. Run your hammer down the stud to look for any protruding nails, and do any sanding before you begin attaching the drywall.

3

Install the Drywall

Use a drywall lift to protect your back and save time, especially if you're handling drywall installation for a ceiling. A drywall lift rolls right up to the stack of drywall sheets, lifts them, and raises them into place.

Put a few tack nails into your sheet of drywall, driving them about 1/4 inch deep. Having them in place makes keeping the drywall sheet in place easier, especially if you don't have a helper with you to hold it while you start a tack.

Lift each piece of drywall, driving the tacks in along the mark that you made down the center of the stud. Once you've placed each piece of drywall, it's time to drive the screws. Make sure you drive them precisely. If you drive them too tightly, they may not hold and could pop free in the future, possibly tearing the drywall. If you underdrive the screws, go back in and reset them with a cordless drill.

Hang drywall over doors before you cut it. Then, cut away the space for the door. After you've hung the sheet, score its back, and cut the paper on the other side to get a clean cut and a perfect fit. Door jambs are often out of square, so leave a little leeway when you hang drywall around them.

When it comes to cutting out sections of drywall for recessed lighting or electrical outlets and switches, use a spiral saw. Use a sharp bit, and keep some extra bits on hand as they have a tendency to break, especially if the bit is set too far into the saw. Set the bit to about 1/8 inch of exposure to avoid cutting through an electrical box or slicing a wire.

Cut clockwise when doing freehand work, but work counterclockwise if you have to cut around electrical elements as the motion of the bit pulls your saw toward the object around which you're cutting. Tuck wires far into the electrical box to make sure you don't cut them with the spiral saw by mistake, especially if the wires are live. Be especially careful with the spiral saw around electrical boxes as it can easily slice through a plastic electrical box, resulting in wild, undesirable cuts. Precision is also necessary around electrical boxes because the stress caused by plugging and unplugging electrical cords ultimately causes crumbling in any mud you use to cover imperfections.

 

Following these best practices will ensure you’re getting the job done right in as little time as possible. Explore our best practices for mudding and taping for additional support.